Turfgrasses, like all green plants, must be able to photosynthesize in order to survive and grow. Close mowing reduces the amount of leaf area available for photosynthesis, reducing plant vigor. As cutting height is reduced, lawns become less tolerant of environmental stresses and more prone to invasion by weeds than a lawn maintained at a higher cutting height. In addition, root systems of grasses usually become shorter and less prolific as cutting height is reduced. Although a closely-cut lawn can be successfully maintained, its shorter root system will result in a need for more frequent watering and fertilization to compensate for its reduced ability to obtain water and nutrients from the soil. It is therefore desirable to maintain your lawn at the highest cutting height acceptable for its intended use and aesthetic value. A cutting height of 5.0 to 7.5 cm (2 to 3 inches) is best for most lawns.

How fast a lawn grows determines how frequently it requires mowing. In order to avoid stressing turf, no more than one third of existing shoot growth should be removed at any one mowing. For example, if a lawn is being mown at 5.0 cm (2 inches), it should not be allowed to grow higher than 7.5 cm (3 inches) before it is mown again. If a lawn grows excessively high for some reason, the mowing height should be gradually reduced to the proper height over a span of several mowings rather than all at once. This will minimize excessive buildup of clippings as well as prevent physiological shock to the plant which may occur when the grass is severely defoliated after being allowed to grow too high.

Unless an excessive amount of clippings remain on the lawn following mowing (because of infrequent mowing), there is no need to remove clippings by bagging or raking. In fact, clippings are a valuable source of nutrients. Clippings returned to a lawn will return nitrogen and other nutrients to your lawn over the course of a season, thus reducing the need for additional fertilization. The addition of organic matter in the form of clippings may help to improve the status of your soil over time as well, especially if it is sandy and/or low in organic matter. Contrary to popular belief, returning clippings to the lawn does not normally contribute to increased thatch formation. Clippings are composed primarily of easily degradable compounds which break down rapidly and do not accumulate. If the lawn is mown when wet, clippings may clump together and make removal necessary. Mowing when the lawn is dry will help to prevent clumping; however, the lawn should not be allowed to grow excessively high merely because the grass is wet. Mowing a wet lawn (assuming no disease is active) will not damage it.

The direction of mowing should be varied with each mowing in order to promote upright shoot growth. The formation of a horizontal growth orientation (grain) can be minimized if the lawn is mown at right angles on alternate mowings.

The two principal types of mowers available for use on home lawns are reel mowers and rotary mowers. Reel mowers employ a rotating cylinder of blades (usually five or six) which catch the grass against a stationary bedknife in order to cut it. While reel mowers provide the finest quality of cut available, they are expensive, not easily adjusted by the homeowner, and require specialized equipment for sharpening. Due to potential damage to the cutting units, reel mowers also cannot be used where stones, twigs or other debris are a problem. Reel mowers are generally restricted to fine turf areas such as golf courses and high maintenance athletic fields. Rotary mowers, which employ a single blade that rotates horizontally, are by far the most commonly used mower for home lawns. Rotary mowers cut the grass by impact (similar to how a machete works), causing a rougher, more uneven cut than a reel mower. However, they will do an acceptable job on virtually any lawn and are much easier to maintain than reel mowers. Mulching mowers are rotary mowers which cut the clippings into small pieces. This allows the clippings to fall down into the turf canopy more easily and to decompose more quickly. It is very important to keep the mower blades as sharp as possible, regardless of which type of mower is chosen. Dull mowers tear the grass blades rather than cut them, resulting in excessive injury to the plants as well as a brownish cast to the turf.